When hurricane season ramps up, most of us think about bottled water, flashlights, batteries, and maybe a generator. All important. But if you live in a storm-prone area, your home’s exterior is the real front line—because wind, flying debris, and wind-driven rain don’t care how organized your pantry is.
The good news is that hurricane prep doesn’t have to feel overwhelming. With the right checklist (and a little time before the first serious watch is issued), you can reduce the chance of costly damage and make your home safer and easier to secure in a hurry.
This guide walks through practical steps for the big four exterior systems that take a beating in storms: your roof, gutters and drainage, windows, and doors. You’ll also see what to document, what to fix now versus later, and how to decide when it’s time to call in a pro.
Start with a quick storm-readiness walkaround
Before you climb ladders or start buying supplies, do a simple lap around your home and take notes. Look for anything loose, cracked, sagging, or missing. The goal isn’t to diagnose every issue perfectly—it’s to spot vulnerabilities that hurricanes love to exploit.
As you walk, pay attention to transitions and edges: roof-to-wall intersections, around chimneys and vents, where gutters meet downspouts, window frames, door thresholds, and garage door tracks. These “seams” are where water intrusion often starts, and small openings can become big problems in high winds.
It also helps to take photos with your phone. If you ever need to file an insurance claim after a storm, having “before” images of your roofline, windows, doors, and landscaping can make the process smoother and less stressful.
Make a simple priority list you can actually finish
Hurricane prep works best when it’s realistic. Split your list into three buckets: “do today,” “schedule soon,” and “monitor.”
“Do today” includes things like clearing gutters, removing loose yard items, tightening a few screws, or replacing a missing downspout strap. “Schedule soon” might be a roof inspection, replacing a worn door sweep, or upgrading window protection. “Monitor” could be hairline caulk cracks or a small stain you want to keep an eye on.
This approach keeps you from getting stuck in perfection mode, and it ensures the most storm-critical tasks happen first.
Roof checklist: the system that matters most
Your roof is the largest exposed surface on your home, and during a hurricane it’s under constant stress from uplift forces (wind trying to peel it back), pressure changes, and wind-driven rain. A roof doesn’t have to be “old” to be vulnerable—small installation issues, aging sealants, and minor storm damage from prior seasons can create weak points.
If you’re not comfortable on a ladder or your roof is steep, don’t risk it. You can do a lot from the ground with binoculars, and a professional inspection is often the safest and most cost-effective choice—especially before the peak of the season.
Shingles, tiles, and metal panels: what to look for from the ground
Start by scanning for anything that looks uneven: lifted shingle corners, missing tabs, cracked tiles, or areas that look “patched” or mismatched. With asphalt shingles, granule loss can show up as darker patches or excessive grit in gutters and downspout outlets.
For tile roofs, look for tiles that have shifted or sit higher than their neighbors. Even one broken tile can become a pathway for water if wind-driven rain gets underneath. For metal roofing, watch for loose fasteners, separating seams, or bent flashing edges.
If you notice repeated issues in the same area after heavy rain—like stains on ceilings or damp spots in the attic—that’s a strong sign the roof system needs attention before a major storm hits.
Flashing and penetrations: the “small parts” that cause big leaks
Most hurricane-related roof leaks don’t happen in the middle of a perfectly intact roof field. They happen at penetrations and transitions: plumbing vents, attic vents, skylights, chimneys, and the edges where roof planes meet walls.
From the ground, look for rust stains, lifted metal edges, or missing sealant around vent boots. In the attic (if you have safe access), check around penetrations for dark staining, damp insulation, or daylight where it shouldn’t be.
These areas are also where quick “temporary fixes” sometimes fail. If you see heavy tar patches or sloppy sealant blobs, consider getting it evaluated—storm winds can pry at brittle patchwork and open it up again.
Fascia, soffits, and roof edges: wind loves the perimeter
The edges of your roof are where wind can get leverage. If fascia boards are rotting, soffit panels are loose, or drip edges are missing, wind can push into those gaps and increase uplift pressure under the roofing materials.
Check for sagging soffits, visible gaps at corners, and peeling paint that might indicate moisture damage. If you have vented soffits, make sure panels are secure and not cracked. A small opening can allow wind-driven rain—and even pests—into attic spaces.
Also look at the roofline after windy days. If you see debris collecting in one section consistently, it may indicate a dip, a damaged edge, or a gutter issue that’s pushing water back toward the roof assembly.
When to bring in a pro (and what to ask them)
If you’re seeing multiple lifted shingles, recurring leaks, or visible flashing issues, it’s time to schedule a professional assessment. A reputable contractor can check fastening patterns, underlayment condition (where visible), and vulnerable details that aren’t obvious from the ground.
Many homeowners also prefer to establish a relationship with a local contractor before an emergency. During the rush after a hurricane, reputable crews get booked quickly, and you don’t want to be scrambling while your home is exposed.
If you’re in South Florida and want a starting point, you can talk to a roofing company in Pompano Beach about a pre-season inspection and what upgrades make sense for your specific roof type and neighborhood wind exposure.
Gutters and drainage: controlling water is half the battle
Hurricanes aren’t just about wind. They’re about water—lots of it, often in a short period of time. Even if your roof stays intact, overflowing gutters and poor drainage can cause fascia rot, foundation issues, landscape washouts, and water intrusion around doors and windows.
Your goal is to keep water moving away from your home efficiently. That means clear gutters, securely attached downspouts, and a plan for where the water goes once it hits the ground.
Cleanouts that actually work (not just “looks clean”)
Gutter cleaning isn’t glamorous, but it’s one of the highest-return hurricane prep tasks you can do. Remove leaves, pine needles, roof grit, and seed pods—anything that can form a clog when it gets saturated.
After you scoop debris, flush gutters with a hose and watch how water moves. If it pools, backs up, or spills over the edge, you may have a slope issue, a hidden clog at an elbow, or a downspout that’s undersized for your roof area.
Also check the gutter outlets where downspouts begin. These are common choke points, especially if you have gutter guards that keep large debris out but allow small grit to build up over time.
Attachment points, straps, and seams: prevent blow-off
In high winds, loosely fastened gutters can twist, pull away, or detach completely. Walk the perimeter and gently press on the gutter edge. It should feel secure, not wobbly.
Look for separated seams, missing screws, or hangers spaced too far apart. If a section has already started to sag, it will likely perform worse under the weight of stormwater.
Downspouts should be strapped firmly to the wall, with the bottom extension directing water away from the foundation. If the extension is missing, water can dump right at the base of your home—exactly where you don’t want it during prolonged rain.
Where does the water go next?
Even perfect gutters can’t help if water has nowhere to go. Check the grade around your home. The soil should slope away from the foundation, not toward it. Low spots near exterior doors are especially risky because water can pool and push inside.
If you have splash blocks, make sure they’re positioned correctly and not buried. If you use flexible downspout extensions, inspect them for cracks or clogs and confirm they still discharge far enough from the house.
For homes with frequent pooling issues, consider longer extensions, a French drain, or a simple regrading project. These improvements can be the difference between a manageable storm and a water-in-the-house nightmare.
Windows: pressure, impact, and the sneaky ways water gets in
Windows are one of the most vulnerable parts of a home during a hurricane. They face direct wind pressure and potential impact from debris. But even without a dramatic break, water can intrude through tiny gaps in seals, frames, and flashing—especially when wind forces rain sideways.
Prepping windows is a mix of protection (shutters or panels), maintenance (seals and hardware), and smart habits (knowing how to cover them quickly when a watch is issued).
Shutters, panels, and impact windows: choosing your strategy
If you already have shutters, test them before you need them. Roll-down shutters should operate smoothly and lock properly. Accordion shutters should slide without binding and latch securely. For panel systems, confirm you have all the panels, fasteners, and the correct tools to install them.
If you rely on plywood, make sure it’s pre-cut, labeled for each opening, and stored in a dry place. The time to discover you’re missing hardware is not the night before landfall.
Impact-rated windows can be a major upgrade for storm resilience, but they still need maintenance. Impact glass helps with debris, yet water can still get in if seals and installation details are failing.
Sealants, caulk lines, and weep holes: small maintenance, big payoff
Walk around each window and inspect the caulk where the frame meets the wall. If you see cracking, gaps, or peeling, plan to re-caulk with an exterior-rated product compatible with your materials. Avoid smearing new caulk over failing caulk without cleaning and prep—it won’t bond well and can trap moisture.
Check the condition of weatherstripping and confirm locks pull the sash tight. A window that doesn’t close squarely can whistle in wind and allow water to creep in.
Also look for weep holes in the bottom of window frames (common in many designs). These tiny openings let trapped water drain out. If they’re clogged with dirt or paint, water can back up into the frame and leak indoors during heavy rain.
Interior clues that point to exterior window problems
Sometimes the best evidence is inside. Look for bubbling paint near window corners, soft drywall, or discoloration on trim. These can indicate slow leaks that become major during a hurricane.
If you see condensation between panes on double-pane windows, that suggests a failed seal. While that’s not always an immediate storm emergency, it can signal age-related deterioration that makes the window more vulnerable overall.
Make a list of any window that’s hard to open, hard to lock, or shows repeated moisture marks. Those are your priority windows for repairs or upgrades before the next big system approaches.
Doors: entry doors, patio sliders, and the garage door problem
Doors take more abuse than most people realize during hurricanes. They’re large openings, they sit at ground level where water collects, and they often have multiple seals and moving parts that wear out over time.
A well-prepped door keeps wind-driven rain out and helps maintain the pressure balance of your home. A poorly sealed or weak door can be a failure point, especially if the garage door is compromised.
Entry doors: hinges, latches, and weather seals
Start with the basics: check hinge screws and strike plates. If screws are loose or stripped, replace them with longer, heavier-duty screws that bite into framing (when appropriate for your door and frame). A secure latch helps the door resist racking under wind pressure.
Inspect your weatherstripping around the jamb and the door sweep at the bottom. If the sweep is torn or flattened, replace it. If light is visible under the door, water can get in during heavy rain.
If you have a threshold with adjustable screws, make sure it’s properly set so the sweep seals without making the door hard to close. This little tune-up can reduce water intrusion dramatically.
Sliding glass doors: track maintenance and locking
Patio sliders are common weak points because they’re wide and rely on tracks and rollers. Clean the track thoroughly and remove grit that can prevent the door from closing tightly. If the rollers are worn, the door may sag slightly, creating gaps at the top or sides.
Confirm the lock engages fully, and consider adding a secondary security bar in the track for extra resistance. While that’s often thought of as a security measure, it also helps keep the door from flexing under pressure.
Check the fixed panel too. Sometimes the “stationary” side loosens over time, and that can create a path for water. Tighten fasteners and inspect seals along the frame.
Garage doors: the oversized vulnerability
Garage doors are one of the most common structural failure points in hurricanes. A standard garage door can buckle under wind pressure, and once it fails, wind can rush into the home, increasing uplift on the roof and potentially leading to far more severe damage.
Look for a wind-rated garage door or a bracing kit designed for your door model. Check tracks, hinges, and rollers for wear. The door should close tightly against the weather seal, and the bottom seal should be intact.
If you’ve never evaluated your garage door for wind resistance, it’s worth doing before peak season. It’s not the most exciting upgrade, but it’s one of the most protective.
Yard and exterior items: reduce flying debris and water traps
Hurricane prep isn’t only about the building envelope. Your yard can either help protect your home or become a source of projectiles and clogged drainage. A few smart steps outside can reduce risk to your roof, windows, and doors.
Think of it as “debris management” and “water management.” Both matter a lot when winds pick up and rain comes down hard.
Trim, tie down, and store: the simple stuff that prevents damage
Trim dead branches and any limbs that overhang the roof. Even small branches can break shingles or crack tiles when they fall. Palms should be pruned correctly (avoid over-pruning), and loose fronds should be removed if they’re likely to tear off.
Bring in or secure patio furniture, grills, potted plants, and yard decor. If it can move, assume it will move. Store items in a garage or shed, or strap them down with hurricane-rated tie-downs.
Also check fences and gates. Loose panels can become airborne or slam into your home repeatedly. Tighten hinges and latches, and replace rotted sections if you have time.
Check drainage around patios, pool decks, and walkways
Hardscaped areas can funnel water toward doors if they’re not graded well. Look for spots where water tends to puddle after a normal rain. Those puddles often become mini-flood zones during a tropical system.
Clear drains in pool decks and patios. If you have a pool, make sure you know your storm plan (some areas recommend lowering water slightly, others don’t—follow local guidance). The key is ensuring overflow routes won’t send water toward your home.
If you have a sump pump or drainage pump, test it. A pump that hasn’t been run in months may fail right when you need it most.
Pre-season repairs vs. last-minute fixes: timing matters
Some tasks are perfect for a calm weekend in May or June. Others are doable when a storm is a few days out. Knowing the difference helps you avoid rushed decisions, empty store shelves, and risky DIY attempts.
As a rule: anything that requires curing time (like sealants), special-order materials, or professional scheduling should be handled early. Anything that’s about securing loose items and deploying protection can wait until a watch or warning is issued.
Projects to handle early (before forecasts get serious)
Schedule roof inspections, repairs, and upgrades early. If you’re seeing signs of leaks, don’t wait—small issues become bigger under hurricane conditions. If you suspect you need shingle replacement, flashing work, or a more involved repair, get on a contractor’s schedule before everyone else does.
Replace worn weatherstripping, door sweeps, and damaged window hardware. These are relatively inexpensive improvements that can take a home from “mostly sealed” to “storm ready.”
Consider upgrades like impact windows, new exterior doors, or a wind-rated garage door if your home is due for improvements. These aren’t last-minute tasks, but they can dramatically reduce storm stress for years.
Tasks that make sense when a storm is on the way
Install shutters or panels, bring in outdoor items, and clear final yard debris. Do a last sweep of gutters and downspout outlets, especially if the forecast includes days of heavy rain bands.
Top off any exterior sealant touch-ups only if you have enough dry time for proper curing. If rain is imminent, it’s often better to focus on physical barriers (shutters/panels) and interior protection (towels, buckets, plastic sheeting) rather than messy last-minute caulk jobs.
Do a quick interior check too: move valuables away from windows, photograph key areas for documentation, and know where your shutoffs are (water and electricity) in case you need them.
What to do if you spot roof damage right before hurricane season
Finding roof issues can be stressful, especially if you’re close to the heart of hurricane season. But it’s also a gift—because you still have time to reduce risk. The key is to act quickly and focus on repairs that restore the roof’s ability to shed water and resist uplift.
If you notice missing shingles, loose flashing, or evidence of a leak, prioritize getting a professional evaluation. A patch that’s “good enough” in calm weather may fail under sustained wind and heavy rain.
Document the issue and avoid risky DIY
Take clear photos from the ground and, if safe, from a ladder at the eave (not onto the roof). Capture wide shots that show location and close-ups of the damage. Note the date and any recent weather events that might have caused it.
Avoid climbing onto a roof you’re not trained to walk on. It’s not only a fall hazard—walking on certain roof types can cause additional damage. Plus, if the roof deck is compromised, it may not support weight safely.
Instead, focus on preventing interior damage (like placing a tarp in the attic under a drip point or moving items away from leaks) while you arrange a repair.
Choosing the right help for repairs
When you call for service, ask specifically about storm-readiness. A good contractor should be able to explain how they’ll address uplift risk, water intrusion points, and whether any materials are nearing end-of-life.
If you’re searching locally, working with a roof repair company Pompano Beach can help you get targeted recommendations for common regional issues—like wind-driven rain vulnerabilities, salt-air corrosion, and the wear patterns that show up after repeated tropical systems.
Also ask what “temporary” measures are appropriate if a storm is approaching fast. Some emergency steps can help reduce water intrusion, but they should be done correctly and safely.
Extra considerations for multi-family buildings and businesses
Hurricane prep gets more complex when you’re responsible for a building that serves multiple households or a commercial space. The exterior systems are larger, the stakes are higher, and coordination matters—because one weak point can affect multiple units or disrupt operations for weeks.
Even if you’re “just” a tenant, it’s helpful to understand what a good exterior readiness plan looks like so you can ask the right questions of property management.
Roof access, drainage capacity, and maintenance logs
Commercial and multi-family roofs often have HVAC units, vents, drains, and long runs of flashing that require routine maintenance. Before hurricane season, roofs should be inspected for membrane condition (if applicable), seam integrity, and securement at edges and corners.
Drainage is critical. Flat and low-slope roofs rely on internal drains, scuppers, and tapered insulation to move water. If drains are clogged, ponding can become severe during long rain events and add weight and stress to the system.
Maintenance logs are more than paperwork—they help prove due diligence and can guide pre-storm work. If your building doesn’t keep records of roof inspections and repairs, it’s worth encouraging that habit.
Working with specialists who understand larger systems
Commercial roof systems aren’t the same as residential. Materials, attachment methods, and failure modes differ. If you manage a property or own a business space, it’s smart to consult a contractor with specific experience in commercial roofing so you’re not relying on guesswork or one-size-fits-all recommendations.
Ask about perimeter edge securement, roof-to-wall transitions, and how rooftop equipment is anchored. In hurricanes, wind can get under poorly secured edges and start a progressive failure that spreads across sections of the roof.
Also consider your post-storm plan: who performs emergency tarping, how quickly you can get a crew onsite, and how you’ll communicate with occupants or employees about access and safety.
Paperwork and proof: the boring step that saves headaches later
It’s not as satisfying as installing shutters, but documentation can be a lifesaver after a storm. When you’re tired, stressed, and possibly dealing with temporary repairs, clear records help you get claims moving and reduce disputes about pre-existing conditions.
Set aside an hour to document your home’s exterior and store the files somewhere safe (cloud storage is ideal). Keep copies of important contacts and policy details accessible even if power is out.
What to photograph and where to store it
Photograph each side of your home, the roofline from multiple angles, gutters and downspouts, each window type, each exterior door, and the garage door. Take close-ups of any existing damage you’re monitoring.
Also photograph big-ticket exterior items like HVAC units, generators, and any exterior structures (sheds, fences, pergolas). If you have shutters or panels, photograph them installed at least once so you have proof of condition and coverage.
Store these photos in a labeled folder with the date. Emailing them to yourself or uploading to a cloud drive ensures you can access them if your phone is damaged or lost.
Receipts, warranties, and contractor info
Keep receipts for major repairs and upgrades—roof work, window replacements, door installations, and gutter replacements. Warranties often require proof of professional installation or specific maintenance steps.
Write down contractor names, license numbers (if applicable), and contact details. After a storm, many areas see an influx of out-of-town crews, and it can be hard to verify who’s reputable when you’re in a rush.
If you’ve had inspections, keep the reports. They can help show the condition of the home before a storm and support your claim if damage occurs.
A practical “48 hours out” exterior game plan
When a storm is approaching, decision fatigue is real. Having a short, repeatable plan helps you move quickly and calmly. The goal in the final 48 hours is to secure what you can, avoid risky projects, and focus on measures that reduce damage if the storm intensifies.
Use this as a quick checklist you can print or save on your phone.
Day 1: secure and stage
Bring in loose items, trim only small easy branches (leave major trimming to pros), and clear gutters and drain grates. Move vehicles to safer locations if flooding is a concern in your area.
Stage shutters/panels and tools. Confirm you have the right screws, anchors, and bits. Charge power tool batteries and keep manual tools as a backup.
Walk through doors and windows: confirm locks work, weatherstripping is seated, and sliding doors are clean and closing tightly.
Day 2: protect openings and do a final perimeter check
Install shutters or panels earlier rather than later, especially if winds are expected to pick up. Doing it in calm conditions is safer and faster.
Check the garage door: ensure it closes firmly, the opener works properly, and any bracing system is ready. Confirm downspout extensions are in place and pointing away from the home.
Do one last walkaround: look up at roof edges, check gutters for sagging, confirm gates are latched, and make sure nothing is leaning against the house that could rub or strike during wind gusts.
How to think about upgrades after the season (so next year is easier)
Once hurricane season passes, it’s tempting to forget about storms until next year. But the off-season is the best time to plan improvements because contractors are less slammed, materials are more available, and you can make decisions without a forecast looming.
Even small upgrades—like better gutter attachments, improved door sweeps, or routine roof maintenance—add up over time and make your home more resilient.
Focus on the weak points you noticed during storms
Did you see water pooling near a door? Did your gutters overflow? Did a window leak at the corner? Those real-world observations are valuable. They tell you where your home struggled under pressure.
Use those notes to guide improvements: regrade a problem area, extend downspouts, replace worn seals, or schedule a more thorough roof evaluation. If your shutters were a pain to deploy, consider a system that’s easier to use.
Resilience is often about reducing friction. The easier it is to protect your home, the more likely you’ll do it early and do it well.
Build a repeatable annual routine
A simple yearly schedule can keep you ahead of problems: clean gutters at least twice a year, inspect caulk and seals every spring, test shutters before the season, and do a roof scan after major wind events.
Keep a small “storm kit” for exterior prep: spare fasteners for panels, a caulk gun and compatible sealant (for non-emergency times), work gloves, a headlamp, and a labeled hardware container.
Over time, this routine turns hurricane prep from a stressful scramble into a predictable checklist—one that protects your home, your budget, and your peace of mind.
