If you’ve ever started packing for a move and thought, “I’ll just grab a couple rolls of bubble wrap and a stack of paper,” you’re not alone. Then you wrap three plates, cushion one lamp, and suddenly you’re staring at an empty roll and a mountain of stuff still sitting on shelves. Packing paper and bubble wrap disappear fast—especially when you’re trying to protect the things you actually care about.

This guide is here to make the guessing game a lot smaller. We’ll talk about how to estimate what you need based on your home size, what you own, and how fragile your items are. You’ll also get some practical rules of thumb (the kind you can use while standing in the packing aisle) and a few “don’t waste your money” tips that can save you from overbuying—or worse, running out on the night before your move.

And because the target keyword for this piece is trusted moving services by Toms Marathon, we’ll also touch on how pros think about packing materials—so you can borrow their approach even if you’re packing yourself.

Why estimating packing materials is harder than it looks

Unlike boxes, packing paper and bubble wrap don’t come in neat, predictable “one room = one unit” quantities. A single kitchen can burn through paper quickly if you have lots of glassware, while a minimalist kitchen might barely need any. The same goes for bubble wrap: it’s not just about how many fragile items you have, but their shapes, sizes, and how you plan to pack them.

Another reason it’s tricky is that people pack differently. Some folks wrap every mug individually (smart), while others stack them with one sheet between each (sometimes fine, sometimes risky). Some people use paper as “filler” inside boxes, while others rely on towels and linens. Your style changes the math.

Finally, the “unknown unknowns” show up: you find a shelf of stemware you forgot about, or you realize your picture frames are all glass-fronted. Those surprise categories can add 20–30% to your material needs if you’re not prepared.

Quick definitions: packing paper vs. bubble wrap (and when each wins)

Packing paper: flexible, fast, and great for filling space

Packing paper (the plain, unprinted kind) is your everyday workhorse. It’s ideal for wrapping dishes, bowls, cups, and small décor, and it’s also perfect for crumpling into cushioning. If you’re packing a box and you can still feel items shifting when you shake it lightly, paper is often the easiest fix.

Paper is also less “bulky” than bubble wrap, so it helps you keep box sizes reasonable. That matters because heavy boxes are harder to carry and more likely to break. Paper lets you pad without adding too much thickness.

One more win: paper is usually cheaper per use, especially when you factor in how often you’ll use it as void fill. If you’re trying to manage your budget, paper should usually be the bigger portion of what you buy.

Bubble wrap: higher protection for impact and awkward shapes

Bubble wrap shines when items are truly fragile, oddly shaped, or have delicate edges. Think: framed art with glass, vases, figurines, electronics, and anything with protruding parts. It’s also excellent for items that might take a corner hit—because bubbles absorb impact better than paper.

But bubble wrap can be easy to overuse. Wrapping every plate in bubble wrap is protective, sure, but it can quickly double the volume of your packed boxes and drive up your box count. That’s why many experienced packers use bubble wrap strategically rather than universally.

If you’re moving long-distance, storing items for a while, or shipping valuables, bubble wrap becomes more important. For short local moves where boxes won’t be handled as many times, you can often lean more heavily on paper and smart packing techniques.

Start with the biggest driver: how much “fragile stuff” do you own?

The fastest way to estimate materials is to stop thinking about your home size and start thinking about categories. Two apartments can be the same square footage, but one might have a full bar setup, a big dish set, and lots of décor, while the other has four plates and one coffee mug. Their packing paper needs will be wildly different.

Here are the categories that typically consume the most paper and bubble wrap:

• Kitchen: plates, bowls, cups, glasses, small appliances, pantry jars
• Décor: frames, mirrors, vases, candles in glass, ceramics
• Electronics: monitors, printers, speakers, game consoles
• Collections: figurines, vinyl records with accessories, camera gear
• Garage/workshop: tools in cases, anything with sharp edges that needs separation

If you want a realistic number, do a quick “fragile inventory” walk-through. You don’t need to count every spoon. Just note how many cabinets of breakables you have and whether you’re packing lots of glass and ceramics.

Rules of thumb that actually help (without pretending it’s exact)

A simple baseline by home size (assuming an average amount of breakables)

These are practical starting points for most moves. They assume you’re using paper for wrapping and void fill, and bubble wrap for the more delicate items. If you have a heavy kitchen or lots of décor, bump up the numbers by 25–50%.

• Studio / 1-bedroom: 1–2 bundles of packing paper (25 lb each) + 1–2 small rolls of bubble wrap
• 2-bedroom: 2–3 bundles of packing paper + 2–3 rolls of bubble wrap
• 3-bedroom: 3–5 bundles of packing paper + 3–5 rolls of bubble wrap
• 4-bedroom: 5–7 bundles of packing paper + 5–7 rolls of bubble wrap

Why bundles? Packing paper is often sold in 10 lb, 25 lb, or 50 lb boxes/bundles. A 25 lb bundle is a common “unit” that’s easy to scale up or down.

Bubble wrap varies a lot more in roll size (width, length, and bubble size). When people say they used “three rolls,” those rolls might not be comparable. If you can, look at square footage (or length) before you buy.

A more accurate method: estimate by boxes of breakables

If you want to get closer than “home size,” estimate how many boxes of breakables you’ll pack. For many households, the kitchen alone can be 6–15 boxes depending on how much you cook and entertain.

As a rough guide:

• Per dish/glassware box: 20–35 sheets of packing paper (wrapping + cushioning) and optional 5–15 feet of bubble wrap for extra-delicate items
• Per décor/frames box: 15–30 sheets of paper plus 10–25 feet of bubble wrap (frames love bubble wrap)

When you’re planning, it helps to assume you’ll use more paper early on. People tend to pack carefully at first, then speed up later. Buying enough paper keeps you from “cheaping out” at the end and risking broken items.

Kitchen math: where most of your paper goes

Plates, bowls, and everyday dishes

For plates and bowls, packing paper is usually the best primary wrap. A common approach is: one sheet to wrap, plus a second sheet if the item is heavy or has a delicate rim. Plates can be stacked vertically in a dish pack box with paper between them, but each plate should still be wrapped at least once.

As a planning number, assume 2 sheets per plate and 2–3 sheets per bowl (because bowls often need extra cushioning in the hollow). If you have a full set (say 8–12 place settings), that alone can add up to 80–150 sheets quickly.

Bubble wrap is optional for everyday plates unless they’re expensive, thin porcelain, or you’re moving long-distance. If you do use bubble wrap, you can wrap a small “bundle” of 2–3 plates together after they’re paper-wrapped to reduce bubble wrap usage while still adding impact protection.

Glasses, mugs, and stemware

Glasses and mugs usually do well with paper if you pack them snugly and fill voids. Many people use 2–4 sheets per glass depending on size. Stemware is the exception: stems snap easily, so bubble wrap is often worth it—especially for wine glasses and champagne flutes.

A practical approach is to paper-wrap the bowl of the glass, then add a narrow strip of bubble wrap around the stem area. This hybrid method gives you the “shock absorption” where it matters without turning every glass into a giant bubble-wrapped football.

If you have a bar cart situation—cocktail coupes, rocks glasses, decanters, specialty pieces—plan extra. Those collections are beautiful, but they’re packing-material hungry.

Small appliances and pantry jars

Small appliances (blenders, mixers, coffee machines) often have awkward shapes and hard edges. They can scratch each other and crack plastic parts if they shift. Paper is great for filling gaps around them in the box, but bubble wrap is useful for protecting protruding parts and glossy surfaces.

For pantry jars and bottles, paper is generally enough. Wrap once, then pack upright with paper filling around them. Bubble wrap is usually only necessary for thin glass bottles or anything you’d be truly sad to lose (like specialty oils or homemade preserves).

One tip that saves materials: pack pantry jars in smaller boxes so they don’t become too heavy. You’ll use less filler overall because the box won’t need to be “over-cushioned” to survive being lifted.

Living room and décor: bubble wrap’s natural habitat

Picture frames, mirrors, and glass-fronted items

Frames and mirrors are where bubble wrap really earns its keep. Glass doesn’t just crack—it shatters, and the vibration of moving can create stress fractures even if nothing “hits” it directly. Bubble wrap provides a buffer that paper can’t match.

Plan on wrapping frames with at least one full layer of bubble wrap, paying special attention to corners. Corners are impact magnets. If you’re short on bubble wrap, prioritize corners and edges first, then add paper as a secondary wrap.

Also: don’t forget the box itself. A wrapped frame in an oversized box still needs paper (or other padding) so it can’t slide. Many breakages happen because the item is well-wrapped but poorly immobilized.

Vases, ceramics, and sentimental décor

Ceramics can be deceptive: they feel sturdy until they take one sharp hit. If you have pieces with handles, narrow necks, or thin edges, bubble wrap is a safer bet than paper alone.

That said, paper is excellent for building a “nest” in the box. Crumple paper to create a base, set the item in, and then build paper around it so it can’t shift. Use bubble wrap on the item itself, and paper to lock it into place.

If you’re packing lots of small décor, you’ll burn through paper quickly just filling the empty space between items. This is where people often run short—because it doesn’t feel like you’re using much until you realize every box needs a couple handfuls of crumpled paper.

Bedrooms: less fragile, but still material-heavy in sneaky ways

Makeup, toiletries, and bathroom glass

Bedrooms and bathrooms don’t always scream “packing paper,” but they can eat it up. Perfume bottles, skincare in glass, and anything that might leak should be wrapped and separated. Paper works well here because it’s absorbent and helps contain minor spills.

Bubble wrap is helpful for true breakables—perfume bottles, glass jars, and anything you’d hate to open as a shattered mess. For plastic bottles, paper is more about preventing leaks from spreading and keeping caps from popping open.

Pack these items in small boxes with plenty of paper fill. Overpacking a box of toiletries is a recipe for crushed containers and messy surprises.

Lamps, shades, and odd-shaped items

Lamps are tricky: bases can be heavy and fragile, shades can dent, and the whole thing is awkward. Bubble wrap is great for lamp bases, especially ceramic ones. Paper is better for filling the inside of shades and preventing them from collapsing.

If you have multiple lamps, plan on more bubble wrap than you think. Each base needs several passes, and cords should be secured so they don’t scratch the finish. Paper can protect surfaces too, but bubble wrap helps with drops and bumps.

For shades, avoid wrapping tightly with bubble wrap (it can dent). Instead, use paper to support the shape and pack upright in a box with gentle fill.

Electronics: when bubble wrap is helpful, and when it’s not

TVs and monitors

For TVs and monitors, the best-case scenario is the original box with the original foam. If you don’t have that, bubble wrap can help—but you want to be careful not to press bubbles hard against the screen. Some screens can be damaged by pressure points.

A safer method is: a soft screen cover (microfiber cloth or foam sheet), then a light layer of bubble wrap around the unit, then a snug box with paper filling to prevent movement. Paper does the immobilizing; bubble wrap does the shock absorption.

If you’re moving a large TV, consider specialty TV boxes. They cost more, but they can save you from a very expensive mistake.

Small electronics and cables

For game consoles, routers, smart home hubs, and speakers, bubble wrap is usually worth it. These items often have corners and vents that can crack if they take a hit. Wrap them, then pack tightly with paper fill so they don’t rattle.

Cables don’t need bubble wrap, but they do benefit from organization. Bag them, label them, and use paper to keep them from tangling into a knot that steals an hour of your life later.

One underrated use of paper: separating items with glossy finishes so they don’t scuff each other. A single sheet between devices can prevent scratches that would otherwise show up as soon as you unpack.

How to choose the right bubble wrap size (and avoid wasting it)

Bubble wrap isn’t one-size-fits-all. Small-bubble wrap (often 3/16″) is great for wrapping smaller items and protecting surfaces from scratches. Large-bubble wrap (often 5/16″ or 1/2″) is better for shock absorption on larger, heavier items.

If you’re only buying one type, small bubbles are usually more versatile for a typical household move. But if you have lots of frames, mirrors, and larger décor, having at least some larger bubble wrap can reduce how many layers you need.

To cut waste, tear off pieces that match the item rather than wrapping like you’re mummifying it. And whenever possible, pair bubble wrap with paper fill: bubble wrap on the item, paper in the box.

Estimating in real life: a mini “packing material calculator” you can do at home

Step 1: Count your fragile zones

Walk your home and count “zones” that contain breakables: kitchen cabinets, bar area, display shelves, bathroom counter storage, and any closets with décor. Write down how many zones you have and how full they are (light/medium/heavy).

As a quick conversion, a heavy fragile zone (like a full kitchen cabinet of glasses) typically translates to 1–2 boxes of breakables. A medium zone is about 1 box. A light zone is half a box.

Add those up to estimate your breakables box count. This number is more useful than square footage for predicting paper and bubble wrap usage.

Step 2: Assign paper and bubble wrap per breakables box

For each breakables box, plan for 25 sheets of packing paper as a baseline. If you’re packing lots of glass or you like generous cushioning, increase to 35 sheets.

For bubble wrap, plan for 10 feet per breakables box if you’re using it selectively (frames, delicate décor, stemware). If you’re wrapping most fragile items in bubble wrap, that can jump to 20–30 feet per box fast.

This method won’t be perfect, but it will keep you from being wildly underprepared.

Step 3: Add a buffer (because you will find more fragile items)

Add 15–25% to both paper and bubble wrap. This buffer covers last-minute discoveries, packing mistakes, and the fact that you’ll probably use more filler than you expect.

If you’re moving in winter or rainy season, add a little extra paper. It’s useful for wiping, drying, and keeping items clean during loading and unloading.

And if your move involves storage, add more bubble wrap. Items in storage tend to be stacked, shifted, and handled multiple times.

When professional help changes your packing-material plan

Pros pack faster, but they don’t magically use less material

Professional packers are efficient because they’ve packed hundreds of kitchens and know exactly how much cushioning is “enough.” That efficiency can reduce waste (like using five sheets where two would do), but it doesn’t eliminate the need for materials. Fragile items still need protection.

What pros do differently is consistency: every box gets a cushioned bottom, items are immobilized, and weight is managed. That means fewer broken items and fewer “I’ll just toss this in with a towel” moments.

If you’re hiring help, ask whether packing materials are included, and if so, what quality and quantity. It can change what you need to buy yourself.

Local moves vs. long-distance moves vs. storage

Local moves generally involve fewer touchpoints: packed once, loaded once, unloaded once. Long-distance moves add transfers, more vibration, and more handling. Storage adds time, stacking pressure, and temperature swings. Each step increases the need for sturdy wrapping and void fill.

If you’re combining moving and storage, it’s worth thinking in terms of “shipping-level protection,” especially for glass and electronics. In that scenario, bubble wrap usage tends to climb.

If you’re comparing options, it can help to look into moving and storage solutions that let you reduce handling. Fewer transfers often means you can pack more efficiently without feeling like you need to overwrap everything “just in case.”

Common packing mistakes that burn through paper and bubble wrap

Using bubble wrap as void fill

Bubble wrap is great on items, not as filler. If you’re stuffing bubble wrap into gaps, you’ll use a ton of it and still sometimes end up with shifting items because bubble wrap springs back.

Paper is usually better for void fill because you can crumple it into tight shapes that lock items in place. If you want to save bubble wrap, reserve it for wrapping the fragile item itself.

If you’re out of paper, towels and clothing can work as filler—but be careful with anything that can stain or snag. And avoid using newspaper on items that can absorb ink.

Oversized boxes for heavy or fragile items

A big box feels like it should reduce the number of boxes you need, but it typically increases your use of cushioning. Large boxes require more filler to prevent movement, and they get heavy quickly, which increases the chance of drops.

For breakables, smaller boxes are your friend. You’ll use less filler overall because the items naturally “lock in” with less empty space.

Think of it this way: it’s better to pack two small, well-cushioned boxes than one large box that needs a mountain of paper to feel safe.

Wrapping too early without a packing plan

If you start wrapping items before you know what box they’re going into, you can end up double-wrapping or unwrapping and rewrapping. That wastes materials and time.

Set up a simple packing station: boxes assembled, tape ready, paper and bubble wrap within reach. Pack in categories (all glassware, then all plates, then all décor) so you get into a rhythm and your material use becomes more consistent.

This is also where labeling helps. When you know a box is “glasses only,” you pack it more efficiently than a random “kitchen stuff” box with mixed shapes.

How to buy the right amount without overspending

Buy in phases (and keep receipts)

If you’re nervous about buying too much, purchase about 70–80% of your estimate upfront and keep receipts for unopened materials. Most retailers will accept returns on unused rolls and bundles.

Then, once you’ve packed the kitchen and your most fragile décor, reassess. Those categories are the best predictors of whether you’ll run short.

This approach also prevents the classic problem: buying everything at once, then realizing you chose the wrong bubble size or you prefer packing paper to foam.

Match material quality to item value

Not everything needs premium protection. Everyday dishes might be fine with paper and smart packing. Your grandmother’s crystal bowl might deserve bubble wrap plus extra cushioning.

When you prioritize, you naturally use materials where they matter most. That keeps costs down without making you feel like you’re gambling with your valuables.

If you’re moving a lot of high-value fragile items, consider professional packing for those specific categories. It can be cheaper than replacing broken items—and less stressful.

Real-world examples: what material lists look like

Example A: 1-bedroom apartment with an average kitchen

Let’s say you have: a basic dish set for 4, a few glasses, one small set of wine glasses, and some framed art. You’ll probably pack 6–10 boxes total, with 2–4 boxes of breakables.

A realistic material list might be:

• 1–2 (25 lb) bundles of packing paper
• 1 roll of small-bubble wrap (plus an extra if you have lots of frames)

This setup covers wrapping, cushioning, and a bit of buffer. If you’re using towels as filler, you might stay on the lower end.

Example B: 3-bedroom home with a full kitchen and lots of décor

Now imagine: dish sets for 8–12, lots of glassware, a few vases, multiple lamps, and several large framed pieces. You might have 12–20 boxes of breakables alone.

A realistic material list might be:

• 4–6 (25 lb) bundles of packing paper
• 4–6 rolls of bubble wrap (mix small and large bubbles if possible)

If you’re doing a long-distance move or storing items, you’d push toward the higher end—especially for bubble wrap.

Planning your move day so packing materials don’t become the bottleneck

Set up a “materials checkpoint” before you’re halfway done

One of the easiest ways to avoid a last-minute shortage is to schedule a checkpoint after you pack the kitchen. The kitchen is the best indicator because it’s dense with breakables and requires both wrapping and filler.

At that checkpoint, look at what you have left and what’s still unpacked. If you’ve used half your paper but only packed one fragile zone, you’ll want to restock immediately.

It’s also a good time to adjust your technique. If you’re using 5–6 sheets per item because you’re nervous, you can switch to better box immobilization (more crumpled paper at the bottom and sides) rather than more wrapping layers on each item.

Coordinate materials with help (friends, family, or hired movers)

If friends are helping, materials vanish faster because multiple people are packing at once. That’s not a bad thing—it just means you should scale up your supply or control distribution (e.g., one packing station instead of everyone grabbing paper from different rooms).

If you’re hiring movers, ask what they handle versus what you handle. Some people pack everything themselves and just need the truck and labor. Others want partial packing support, like kitchen-only packing.

If you’re in Southern California and comparing options, having experienced movers in Anaheim (or in your local area) can change how you think about materials—because pros can advise on what truly needs bubble wrap versus what’s safe with paper and tight packing.

A few friendly packing tips that reduce breakage without doubling material use

Use the “shake test” on every fragile box

After you pack a box of breakables, gently shake it. If you feel movement, you need more fill. This is where paper is gold: add crumpled paper to the sides and top until everything feels locked in.

Doing this consistently prevents you from compensating by adding extra bubble wrap layers to each item. Immobilization is often more important than thickness of wrap.

Also, don’t forget to cushion the top. Many people pad the bottom and sides, then close the box with a small air gap at the top. That gap becomes a bounce zone during loading.

Keep heavy items low and centered

When heavy items shift, they crush lighter items—even if everything is wrapped. Keep heavier pieces at the bottom, centered, and surrounded by paper so they can’t slide into the sides of the box.

This matters for things like mixing bowls, small appliances, and dense ceramics. They can become wrecking balls inside a box if not stabilized.

Better weight distribution often reduces how much bubble wrap you feel you need, because the box itself becomes safer to carry and stack.

Label beyond “fragile”

“Fragile” is helpful, but it’s not specific. Write what’s inside and how it should be handled: “GLASSES – KEEP UPRIGHT” or “FRAMES – DO NOT STACK.”

This kind of labeling can reduce rough handling, which in turn reduces the need for extreme overpacking. You’re essentially solving the problem at the handling level, not just the cushioning level.

If you’re using multiple box sizes, label the destination room too. The faster boxes land where they belong, the fewer times they’re moved around and bumped.

So, how much do you need?

If you want the simplest takeaway: most people underestimate paper and overestimate bubble wrap. Packing paper tends to be the “always useful” material because it wraps, cushions, and fills space. Bubble wrap is best used strategically for high-risk items like frames, mirrors, stemware, and delicate décor.

Use the breakables-box method for a more accurate estimate: count your fragile zones, convert to a rough number of breakables boxes, then plan about 25–35 sheets of paper per box plus 10 feet of bubble wrap per box (more if you’re doing long-distance or storage). Add a buffer, because you will find more fragile items than you think.

And if you’d rather skip the trial-and-error phase, getting advice—or help—from experienced teams like the ones behind trusted moving services can make the whole process smoother, from materials to packing strategy to move-day logistics.