Your sofa and chairs do a lot of heavy lifting. They’re where movie nights happen, where guests gather, where kids build forts, where pets claim their “spot,” and where you finally sit down at the end of the day. Because they’re so central to daily life, upholstery tends to get dirty gradually—so gradually that you might not notice until the fabric looks dull, smells “off,” or feels a little sticky.

Upholstery cleaning is the process of deep-cleaning the fabric (or leather) covering your furniture, along with the padding and crevices that trap dust, oils, allergens, and stains. It’s not just “vacuuming the couch.” Done well, it’s a targeted treatment that matches the cleaning method to the material, the type of soil, and the structure of the furniture so you get a fresher look without damaging the piece.

This guide breaks down what upholstery cleaning actually involves, how it differs from DIY spot-cleaning, and the real-life signs that tell you it’s time to schedule a proper clean. We’ll also talk about fabric codes, common stain types, and practical habits that help your sofa and chairs stay cleaner for longer.

What upholstery cleaning really means (beyond a quick vacuum)

When people say “my couch needs cleaning,” they often mean one of three things: visible stains, a general dingy look, or a smell that’s hard to pinpoint. Upholstery cleaning addresses all three by removing soils from the surface and the deeper layers of fabric where dust and oils settle over time.

Unlike hard surfaces, upholstery is porous. Dust, pollen, pet dander, skin cells, cooking residue, and body oils work their way into the weave. Even if you’re careful, normal use creates a film that makes colors look flatter and fabrics feel less crisp. Upholstery cleaning lifts that buildup so the fabric looks brighter and feels more comfortable again.

Professional upholstery cleaning usually includes inspection, vacuuming with proper attachments, pre-treatment for spots, agitation to loosen soil, extraction or low-moisture cleaning (depending on the fabric), and careful drying. That “depending on the fabric” part matters a lot—because the wrong method can leave water rings, shrinkage, dye bleed, or texture changes.

Why sofas and chairs get dirty faster than you think

Even in a tidy home, upholstered furniture is a magnet for the stuff you don’t see. Every time you sit down, fabric rubs against clothes and skin, transferring oils and fine particles. If you eat on the couch (no judgment), tiny crumbs and grease aerosols settle into seams and cushions.

Pets speed things up. Fur, dander, and the occasional “I was outside and now I’m on the sofa” paw print add up quickly. And if your furniture is near a window or HVAC vent, you’ll get more dust and airborne pollutants landing on the fabric than you might expect.

Humidity and temperature swings can also play a role. In more humid environments, organic soils can cling to fibers more stubbornly and odors can linger longer. In drier conditions, static can pull in dust and make fabrics look grayish. Either way, upholstery has a way of showing life’s mess—just slowly enough that you adapt to it.

The most common upholstery materials and what they need

“Upholstery” isn’t one thing. The cleaning approach changes depending on whether you’re dealing with a delicate natural fiber, a durable synthetic, or leather. Knowing what you have helps you clean it safely and avoid those dreaded water marks or faded patches.

Here are the big categories you’ll run into most often: natural fabrics (like cotton and linen), synthetics (like polyester and microfiber), blends (very common), and leather (which is its own world). Within each category, the weave, dye method, and finish can change how it reacts to moisture and cleaning agents.

If you’re not sure what your furniture is made of, check the manufacturer’s tag under the cushions or on the underside. It often includes a cleaning code (we’ll decode those in a minute), which is a helpful starting point—though it doesn’t replace a proper spot test.

Natural fibers: cotton, linen, wool blends

Natural fibers can feel amazing—breathable, soft, and cozy—but they can be more sensitive to moisture and pH. Cotton and linen can absorb water quickly, which makes them prone to water rings and browning if they get too wet or dry too slowly.

Wool blends can be more resilient than people assume, but they still require gentle handling. Wool can felt or distort with aggressive agitation, and it doesn’t love high-alkaline cleaners. When cleaned properly, though, wool upholstery can look fantastic and resist soiling thanks to the fiber structure.

With natural fibers, controlled moisture and proper drying are key. That’s why a “just scrub it with soapy water” approach can backfire—especially on light colors or loosely woven fabrics.

Synthetics: polyester, olefin, microfiber

Synthetic upholstery is popular because it’s generally durable and stain-resistant, especially when treated with protective finishes. Microfiber, in particular, can be forgiving—until you use the wrong cleaner and it ends up with stiff patches or dark marks.

Many synthetics respond well to low-moisture methods, where cleaning solution is applied sparingly and soils are lifted without saturating the fabric. This helps prevent over-wetting the cushion interior, which is where lingering odors can start.

Even with synthetics, you still want to avoid harsh chemicals and over-scrubbing. Some fabrics develop “pile distortion” (those weird shiny or flattened areas) if you go too hard with a brush.

Leather and faux leather

Leather isn’t cleaned the same way as fabric. It needs soil removal without stripping the natural oils or damaging the protective finish. The goal is to remove body oils and grime, then condition appropriately to keep it supple.

Faux leather (PU or vinyl) is different again: it can handle gentle wiping, but it can crack or peel if exposed to strong solvents or if it dries out over time. You also want to be careful with excessive moisture around seams, where liquid can seep into the backing.

If your leather sofa looks shiny in the areas where people sit most often, that’s usually oil and soil buildup—not “nice patina.” A proper clean can bring back a more even, matte look.

Decoding upholstery cleaning codes (W, S, WS, X)

Those little letters on the tag can be surprisingly helpful, as long as you interpret them correctly. They’re meant to guide you toward safe cleaning methods, but they’re not always the full story—especially for older furniture or pieces that have been reupholstered.

Here’s what the common codes mean in everyday terms. Always spot-test in a hidden area first, and remember that “safe” doesn’t mean “scrub with abandon.”

Also, if your furniture has multiple materials (like a fabric body with leather trim), you may need different approaches for different sections.

W: water-based cleaning

A “W” code means the fabric can generally handle water-based cleaners. That doesn’t mean you should soak it—it means you can use water-based upholstery shampoo or a mild detergent solution with controlled moisture.

For W-coded fabrics, the biggest risks are over-wetting and leaving residue behind. Too much water can lead to rings, slow drying, and odors. Too much soap can make the fabric re-soil faster because residue acts like a magnet for dirt.

When in doubt, use less product than you think you need and focus on thorough extraction (or blotting) and good airflow while drying.

S: solvent-based cleaning

An “S” code means you should avoid water-based cleaners and use a solvent-based upholstery cleaner instead. This is common with certain delicate weaves or fabrics that water can stain or distort.

Solvent cleaning can be effective for oily soils, but it needs careful handling and ventilation. Some solvents can spread stains if used incorrectly, and aggressive rubbing can damage the texture.

If you’ve ever tried to clean an S-coded fabric with water and ended up with a bigger mark than the original stain, you’ve seen why this code matters.

WS: water or solvent (with caution)

WS is the most flexible code, but it still requires common sense. It means the fabric can tolerate either water-based or solvent-based cleaners, which is helpful when you’re dealing with mixed soils (like food plus body oils).

Even with WS fabrics, avoid “all-purpose” cleaners that aren’t designed for upholstery. Many household sprays leave residue, contain optical brighteners, or have a pH that isn’t friendly to fabric dyes.

WS doesn’t mean “anything goes.” It means you have options—so choose the gentlest method that addresses the stain you actually have.

X: vacuum only

X-coded upholstery should only be vacuumed or brushed lightly. Water and solvents can cause staining, shrinking, or texture issues. These fabrics are often specialty weaves or materials with finishes that react poorly to cleaners.

If you have X-coded furniture and it gets stained, it’s a good sign to call in a professional who can test a safe method. DIY attempts on X fabrics often make the problem harder (and more expensive) to fix.

For day-to-day care, keep up with vacuuming and consider using throws or covers in high-use areas to prevent the worst wear.

What happens during a professional upholstery cleaning

Professional upholstery cleaning isn’t one single technique—it’s a process. The best results come from matching the method to the fabric and the type of soil, not from using the same machine and solution on every couch in every home.

Typically, the cleaner will inspect the fabric, check tags, ask about stain history (wine? pet accident? mystery spot?), and do a quick test in an inconspicuous area. That test helps confirm colorfastness and how the fabric reacts to moisture and agitation.

After that, the cleaner will remove dry soil with a thorough vacuum (this matters more than people realize), then apply pre-treatment to break down oils and spots. Depending on the fabric, they may use hot water extraction, low-moisture encapsulation, foam cleaning, or solvent cleaning. Finally, they’ll groom the fabric (especially microfiber) and set up drying recommendations so you don’t end up sitting on damp cushions the next day.

Hot water extraction vs. low-moisture methods

Hot water extraction is the method many people picture: a controlled spray of heated water and cleaning solution, followed by strong suction to pull out soil and moisture. It can be very effective on W or WS fabrics when done carefully.

Low-moisture methods use less water and often rely on specialized solutions that encapsulate soil so it can be extracted or vacuumed away. This approach can reduce drying time and lower the risk of over-wetting, which is especially helpful for delicate pieces or furniture with dense padding.

Neither method is “best” for everything. The right choice depends on fabric type, cushion construction, stain load, and how fast you need the furniture back in action.

Spot treatment, stain removal, and realistic expectations

Stain removal is part chemistry and part timing. Fresh stains are easier. Older stains can oxidize or bond with fibers, making full removal harder—especially if they’ve been treated with the wrong product before.

A good cleaner will tell you what’s likely to improve and what might remain as a “shadow.” Some stains (like certain dyes, old urine, or bleach damage) can permanently alter color. In those cases, cleaning can still improve the look and smell, even if the stain isn’t 100% gone.

It’s also worth knowing that some marks aren’t stains at all—they’re wear. Areas where fabric has frayed, pilled, or lost texture won’t magically return to new. Cleaning helps, but it can’t reverse physical wear.

When you actually need upholstery cleaning (the signs people miss)

Most people wait until a couch looks visibly dirty. The problem is that by the time it looks dirty, it has usually been collecting oils, dust, and allergens for a long time. A better approach is to watch for the subtle signs that your furniture is due.

Think of upholstery cleaning like changing the sheets on your bed: you can’t always see the buildup, but you feel the difference when it’s fresh. The same goes for sofas and chairs—especially in the spots you use every day.

Below are the most common “it’s time” signals, along with what they typically mean.

Dullness, dark armrests, and “headrest shadows”

If the arms or headrest area look darker than the rest of the couch, that’s usually body oil and soil accumulation. It happens gradually, so people often don’t notice until they compare it to a hidden area (like under a cushion).

This kind of buildup can make fabric feel slightly tacky or stiff. It can also attract more dirt because oils act like glue for dust. Cleaning removes that film and helps the fabric look more even.

It’s especially common on light-colored sofas, but it happens on dark fabrics too—you just see it as a change in sheen or texture rather than a color shift.

Persistent odors (even after air fresheners)

If you’re lighting candles or using sprays and the smell keeps coming back, the odor is probably in the fabric and cushion interior. Common culprits include pet dander, spilled drinks, cooking residue, smoke, and moisture that didn’t dry properly after a DIY clean.

Upholstery cleaning can remove the source rather than masking it. Deodorizing is most effective when it’s paired with soil removal, because odor molecules often cling to the same grime you’re trying to lift.

If the odor is strongest after the cushions warm up (like after someone sits for a while), that’s a classic sign it’s embedded in the padding or deeper layers.

Allergy flare-ups and unexplained sneezing

Upholstery can hold onto allergens like pollen, dust mites, and pet dander. If someone in your household has allergies and symptoms feel worse in the living room, your sofa and chairs could be part of the picture.

Regular vacuuming helps, but it doesn’t always remove what’s embedded deeper. A deep clean can reduce the overall allergen load—especially when combined with good HVAC filtration and routine dusting.

This is also why rotating cushions and vacuuming crevices matters. Those hidden areas are where allergens love to settle.

After a spill, a party, or a “life happens” moment

Sometimes the timing is obvious: wine spills, greasy takeout, chocolate fingers, or a pet accident. In those cases, upholstery cleaning isn’t just about looks—it’s about preventing permanent staining and odor.

If a spill soaks into the cushion, surface blotting won’t reach what’s underneath. That’s where professional extraction (or the right low-moisture method) can make a big difference.

Even if you successfully remove the visible mark, residue can remain and attract dirt later. That’s why stains sometimes “come back” days after you thought you handled them.

DIY upholstery cleaning: what’s safe, what’s risky, and what helps most

There’s plenty you can do between professional cleanings to keep your sofa and chairs in good shape. The trick is knowing which DIY habits genuinely help and which ones create bigger problems (like water rings, residue, or damage to the fabric’s texture).

The safest DIY strategy is a “less is more” approach: remove dry soil regularly, treat fresh spills quickly, and avoid soaking the fabric. You’ll be amazed how much better furniture looks when you simply vacuum thoroughly and keep oils from building up.

Below are the most useful at-home habits, plus a few common mistakes to avoid.

Vacuuming the right way (yes, there’s a right way)

Use the upholstery attachment and go slow. Fast vacuuming mostly skims the surface. Slow passes give suction time to pull dust out of the weave. Don’t forget the sides, back, and the gap between cushions.

For pet hair, a rubber brush or a slightly damp microfiber cloth can help lift hair before vacuuming. Some vacuums struggle to pull hair from tightly woven fabrics, so doing a “pre-pass” makes vacuuming more effective.

If your cushions are removable, vacuum all sides and the platform underneath. That hidden area is often the dustiest part of the whole sofa.

Spot-cleaning spills without making a bigger stain

Blot—don’t rub. Rubbing pushes the spill deeper and can distort fibers. Use a clean white cloth and blot from the outside of the spill inward to avoid spreading.

Use minimal moisture. If the fabric is W or WS, a lightly damp cloth with a tiny amount of mild detergent can work for many fresh spills. Then blot with plain water on a clean cloth to remove soap residue, and blot dry.

For S-coded fabrics, avoid water and use a solvent-based upholstery product designed for that purpose. And if you’re unsure of the code or the fabric reacts badly during a spot test, pause and call a pro rather than experimenting.

Common DIY mistakes that cause water rings and stiff patches

One of the biggest mistakes is over-wetting a small area. When you soak one spot, the edges dry first and can leave a ring. It’s better to work slightly beyond the stain and keep moisture controlled.

Another issue is residue. Too much soap, dish detergent, or multi-surface cleaner can leave a film that attracts dirt. The couch looks clean for a week, then gets dingy faster than before.

Finally, scrubbing can damage the nap or pile (especially on microfiber and velvet-like fabrics). If you’ve ever seen a “clean spot” that looks lighter or shinier than the rest, that’s often texture damage rather than leftover stain.

How often should you clean upholstered furniture?

The best schedule depends on how your home actually runs. A formal sitting room that rarely gets used can go longer between deep cleans. A family room sofa that hosts kids, pets, and snacks will need more frequent attention.

As a general baseline, many households do well with professional upholstery cleaning every 12–24 months, plus routine vacuuming. If you have pets, allergies, or heavy daily use, every 6–12 months can be a better fit.

Also consider seasonality. Spring can be a great time to reduce allergens after winter. Late summer or early fall can be helpful if your furniture has absorbed humidity and outdoor dust from open windows.

Homes with pets: hair, oils, and “mystery smells”

Pets bring love—and also oils, dander, and fur that work into fabric fast. Even if your pet doesn’t have accidents, their natural oils can transfer to upholstery and create that slightly “doggy” smell over time.

Regular vacuuming helps, but deep cleaning is what removes the buildup that causes lingering odor. If your pet has a favorite cushion, consider rotating cushions weekly so one area doesn’t get overloaded.

Using washable throws in pet zones can also extend the time between deep cleanings without sacrificing comfort.

Families with kids: snacks, crafts, and high-touch spots

Kids are basically upholstery stress-tests. Sticky hands, spilled juice, and snack crumbs are part of the package. The good news is that many modern fabrics are designed to be more durable than they look.

The key is quick response. The sooner you blot a spill and remove residue, the less likely it is to become a permanent stain. If you’re constantly spot-cleaning, it may be more efficient (and better for the fabric) to schedule a deep clean rather than repeatedly treating small areas.

High-touch spots—arms, fronts of cushions, and headrests—benefit from periodic gentle cleaning even if there aren’t obvious stains.

Entertaining often: the “it looks fine” trap

If you host regularly, your furniture is getting more use than you might realize. Guests bring in outdoor dust on clothing, and food and drink accidents are more likely with a full house.

Even without spills, frequent use increases oil transfer and compresses cushions, making fabric look dull. A periodic deep clean helps keep things looking crisp, especially before big events or holidays.

It’s also a nice way to refresh a room without buying anything new—clean upholstery can make your whole space feel updated.

Upholstery cleaning and the bigger “soft surfaces” picture

Your sofa doesn’t exist in isolation. Rugs, carpets, curtains, and even fabric dining chairs all share the same air and the same dust. When one soft surface is heavily soiled, it can make the whole room feel less fresh.

That’s why it can be smart to think in terms of zones: if you’re deep-cleaning the sofa, it might be the right moment to refresh the rug underneath or the chairs nearby. You don’t necessarily have to do everything at once, but coordinating care can improve results and help your home stay cleaner longer.

If you’re also dealing with rugs or wall-to-wall flooring, adding carpet cleaning into your seasonal routine can reduce the amount of dust and soil that ends up back on your upholstery.

Why rugs and upholstery affect each other

Rugs and carpets act like giant filters. They catch grit and dust that would otherwise float around. But once they’re loaded with soil, every step can kick particles back into the air—and those particles settle on furniture.

When you clean upholstery but leave a heavily soiled rug, the sofa can re-soil faster. You’ll still see improvement, but it may not last as long as you’d like. Cleaning both creates a cleaner baseline for the whole room.

This is especially noticeable in high-traffic living rooms where people walk from outdoors to couch in a short path.

Fabric dining chairs: the overlooked upholstery

Dining chairs are often forgotten until there’s a visible stain. But they deal with food oils, spills, and frequent touch—especially on the top edge where hands grab to pull the chair out.

Because chair upholstery is usually tighter and thinner than a sofa, it can show stains quickly. The upside is that it often dries faster after cleaning. A periodic refresh can make a dining area feel much cleaner and more put-together.

If your dining chairs have decorative trim, tufting, or buttons, those details can trap crumbs and dust. A careful vacuum and occasional deep clean keep them from looking tired.

Pairing upholstery care with wardrobe care (because life is messy)

It might sound unrelated, but your furniture and your clothing share the same reality: oils, spills, and daily wear show up gradually. If you’ve ever noticed that your favorite jacket looks fine until sunlight hits it, you understand how “invisible” buildup can be.

In busy cities, people often juggle home upkeep and personal upkeep at the same time—cleaning the sofa after a gathering, refreshing area rugs, and dropping off clothing that needs special care. In that context, it’s helpful to know services that handle delicate fabrics properly, whether they’re on your body or in your living room.

For example, if you’re coordinating a deep clean before an event and also need garment care, you might already be familiar with options for dry cleaning in Los Angeles—the same “right method for the right material” mindset applies directly to upholstery.

Why fabric knowledge matters more than the tool you use

People often focus on the machine—steam cleaner vs. handheld cleaner vs. spray foam. But the real difference-maker is understanding fibers, dyes, and finishes. That’s what prevents shrinking, discoloration, and texture damage.

Professional cleaners (for garments or furniture) rely on testing, controlled chemistry, and experience with different materials. It’s less about brute force and more about precision.

When you approach upholstery with that same respect for fabric, you get better results and fewer “oops” moments.

Prepping your space before guests: a practical checklist

If you’re hosting, a quick upholstery refresh can be as simple as vacuuming, flipping cushions, and spot-treating anything fresh. Add good airflow (open windows or run fans) to keep the room feeling crisp.

If your sofa has a lingering odor, baking soda can help on some fabrics—lightly dust, let it sit, then vacuum thoroughly. Just be cautious with delicate weaves and avoid grinding powder into the fabric.

And if you’re doing a full home reset, it can be nice to align furniture care with clothing prep—clean sofa, fresh rug, and outfits ready to go.

Small repairs and fit issues: when cleaning isn’t the only fix

Sometimes furniture looks “off” even after cleaning because the issue isn’t dirt—it’s structure. Loose cushion covers, sagging inserts, or stretched fabric can make a clean sofa still look tired.

If your cushion covers are removable and designed to be taken off, check whether they’ve stretched unevenly or if the zipper seams are stressed. In some cases, a small adjustment, new insert, or minor repair can dramatically improve the look.

And if you’re thinking about refreshing a room for the long haul, it’s worth remembering that tailoring isn’t only for clothing. The same idea—better fit, better look—applies to textiles in your home too.

Removable covers: wash, clean, or treat?

Some removable covers can be machine-washed, but many can’t—especially if they’re lined, have special finishes, or aren’t pre-shrunk. Washing the wrong cover can lead to shrinkage that makes it nearly impossible to get back on the cushion.

If the tag says dry clean only, take it seriously. If it’s unclear, test cautiously or consult a professional. A careful upholstery clean on the furniture may be safer than removing and washing covers at home.

When covers are washable, follow cold-water guidelines, avoid heavy detergent, and air-dry if possible to reduce shrink risk.

When “sloppy” slipcovers need a better fit

Slipcovers are great, but they can bunch, sag, or shift constantly—especially in high-use homes. If you’re always tugging fabric back into place, the room can feel messier than it is.

In some situations, adjusting or refining the fit can make a bigger visual impact than cleaning alone. If you’re already using professional services for clothing alterations, you may appreciate how much a small change can improve appearance.

For readers who also need clothing adjustments for upcoming events, services like tailoring Los Angeles can be part of the same “get everything looking sharp” season of life—without you having to do it all yourself.

How to choose an upholstery cleaner (and what to ask)

Not all upholstery cleaning is equal. Two companies can both say they “clean sofas,” but their processes, fabric knowledge, and results can vary a lot. Asking a few simple questions upfront helps you avoid surprises and protects your furniture.

Start by describing your furniture: material (if you know it), color, any known stains, and whether you have pets or allergies. A good cleaner will ask follow-up questions and explain what method they recommend and why.

Also ask about drying time. Faster isn’t always better if it comes from harsh heat, but you do want a plan for proper drying so you don’t end up with mildew smells in cushion interiors.

Questions that reveal real expertise

Ask whether they test for colorfastness and fabric sensitivity before cleaning. Ask what products they use and whether they’re designed specifically for upholstery. If your furniture is S-coded, ask what solvent method they use and how they ensure safe ventilation.

Ask how they handle pet odors and what their process is for urine contamination if that’s relevant. Odor treatment is not the same as stain treatment, and not every “deodorizer” actually solves the problem.

Finally, ask what you should do after cleaning—how long to wait before sitting, whether you should run fans, and how to prevent rapid re-soiling.

Red flags to watch for

Be cautious if someone insists they use one method for every fabric without checking the tag or doing a spot test. Upholstery is too varied for a one-size-fits-all approach.

Also be wary of heavy “upsells” that don’t match your needs. Fabric protector can be useful, but it’s not mandatory for every piece, and it’s not a substitute for routine care.

If pricing seems too good to be true, ask what’s included. A quick surface pass won’t deliver the same results as a thorough process that includes proper pre-treatment and extraction.

Keeping your sofa and chairs looking good between deep cleans

The best upholstery cleaning results last longer when you support them with simple habits. Think of it like brushing your teeth between dental cleanings: the professional visit is important, but the day-to-day care is what keeps everything from sliding backward.

Small routines also reduce the need for aggressive stain removal later, which is better for the fabric over time. Less scrubbing, less chemical exposure, less wear—everyone wins.

Here are a few practical ways to keep your furniture looking and feeling fresh.

Rotate cushions and change your “default seat”

If everyone sits in the same spot (and they do), that cushion will age faster. Rotating cushions weekly or monthly helps distribute wear and keeps the overall look more even.

If cushions are reversible, flip them. If they’re not, swap positions. This also helps prevent one cushion from collecting more oils and dirt than the rest.

For chairs, consider rotating which chair gets used most often if your household has “favorite seats.”

Use throws strategically (not as permanent camouflage)

Throws are great for high-use zones—pet areas, snack spots, and the “nap corner.” The key is to wash them regularly so they’re actually protecting the upholstery rather than becoming another source of odor.

If you’re using throws to hide stains that never got properly cleaned, it might be time to address the underlying issue. Cleaning first, then using throws as protection, works much better.

Choose throws that are easy to wash and that don’t shed lint excessively, especially on textured fabrics.

Manage sunlight and humidity

Direct sunlight can fade upholstery over time, especially on bright colors and certain natural fibers. If your sofa sits in a sunny spot, consider rotating it slightly, using curtains, or applying UV window film.

Humidity management matters too. If your home is humid, use ventilation or a dehumidifier to help fabrics dry faster after spot-cleaning and to reduce musty odors.

In dry climates, occasional conditioning is important for leather, and controlling dust can help fabrics stay brighter.

Your sofa and chairs don’t need to look perfect to be loved—but they do deserve the kind of care that matches how much you use them. Upholstery cleaning is really about restoring comfort and freshness, protecting your investment, and making your everyday space feel better to live in.